New Tactical Rifle Smith & Wesson M&P AR-15 (open MSR topic)

Here's the link: http://shop.customgunrails.com/Blessed-be-the-Lord-Psalm-1441-Large-LEA-LEA070P14.htm

OK. That IS pretty neat.

Unfortunately, I don't think that I have any AR-15's with the full Quad-Rail Handguard.

I think that they are all A-1's & A-2's.

Can you replace A1 and A2 with a quadrail?

RRCmdrBennett wrote:Can you replace A1 and A2 with a quadrail?

On an A2, yes.  It has the "flat top" or convertable receiver.  You will still have to contend with the fixed front sight.

On an A1, it would do much less good.  The receiver has the carrying handle milled in as a permanent portion of it, so any optics mounted on it would end up being about 5 inches above the line of the bore.

Also on an A1, any optics are mounted on a "rail block" that is mounted on top of the carrying handle in front of the rear sight of the rifle.  Depending on the design, it either fully blocks your iron sights, or severly restricts them, because you would have to look through a "tunnel" under any mounted optics.

You can still put a rail handguard on an A1, but it would pretty-much only be good for mounting a light or laser.  Since the A1 and A2 normally have the 20 inch barrel, vertical handgrips would not be really handy.

Looks like mine is a round handguard with just a short mounting rail near the muzzle and a full rail on top of the upper receiver with nothing in between. It would be nice to mount a light/laser below the handguard for night time home defense.

I found this video while checking reviews of the M&P15
The high end custom rifle is a beauty.

Well, I got my new AR today. I really love it!

I noticed its about 1" too short for my stack-on cabinet's plastic barrel rest to catch the muzzle. I have to turn the pistol grip to the side to close the door. I already have the stock fully extended as well. Any ideas on a workaround? Could replacing the collapsable stock with one that can extend another 1.5-2" more help?

Add another barrel rest below the original for shorter rifles.

Can I buy those third party or go to stack-on for another one?  

Here's a picture for the official topic:



Can a picatinney (sp?) rail be added below the front sight?

Just go all redneck on it! Get a piece of 2x4, a jigsaw, some padding and epoxy to put it all together!  

My father inlaw is a WV hillbilly who is good at woodworking. He's already talked about a wooden shelf to replace the plastic one that leaves inches of space behind it for longer rifles. I don't have long rifles that require a space.

It looks like your Gas Block already has a short piece of rail below it. I believe that there are some rail extenders out there. You can also get a "doubler" that attaches to your present rail, and has two (or even three) rails protruding.

Try Cheaper Than Dirt, Midway USA, or Sportsman's Guide.

A simple way to set the rifle upright in your cabinet is to get a 9-inch piece of 1" or 1 1/2" PVC, slip it over the barrel, & there you go. If you want, you can spray the PVC black.

The gas block has two holes on the bottom and one appears to have screw threads. I assumed the threaded hole was for screwing in the sling attachment. The doubler or tripler wouldn't interfere with a sling attachment?

Your idea is pretty good. Another thought would be to created a 1.5" raised foothold for the stocked. Be like a high heel.

I was brave enough to attempt to field strip the charging rod and bolt assembly. Not as hard as I thought. I would like to see about installing a cushion pad to the rear of the stock. That might even fix my storage issue.

You're probably correct. Normally, the sling goes into a notch below the gas block and is held in by a roll pin.

You can also get a three-rail attachment that will just clamp onto your barrel. It's not THE perfect setup, but is good enough for lights & such, and generally costs less than $30.00. Go to www.sportsmansguide.com
and click onto "Tactical Accessories".

When I opened the upper receiver I saw this white chalky stuff. I can scrape some of it off. What do you make of it?

The photo is a bit blurry, but it appears that I am looking at the bearing surface of the (cocked) hammer.

If it feels waxy, then it is probably Teflon, or a related dry lubricant.

Maybe cosmoslite Chris suggested that? It is perfectly ok then?

Cosmoline is Amber-Colored.

It's just a contact protectant or lubricant.

I, personally, put a light coat of grease on that surface of the hammer. That's one of the higher friction-points in the rifle, and one of the first that you will notice wear-marks.

What brands do you recommend for keeping it oiled?

I stopped in Gander to walk around. They sell a rod with a flat round velcro tip for shorter barreled guns to extend beyond the back rest of your cabinet. Salesman said you could use a small diameter dowel rod that is longer the barrel by 1-2". I could just get an extra set of low caliber cleaning rods with a handle and use that to extend higher than the back rest.

I personally like Break-Free Collector, but things like Rem-Oil and FP-10 have a strong following.  Some people use Mobil-1 synthetic on the bolt & carrier.  I bought a quart, and it is some slippery stuff.

DO NOT leave a metal rod in the barrel of your guns.  

When dis-similar metals remain in contact with each other, it can cause a phenomenon called "Galvanic Corrosion".  The simple explanation is that, because different metals have a different number of electrons in their atomic structure, electric current (nano-low voltage) can pass between the two and cause corrosion (or break-down of the metal) at the point of contact.

So don't leave a metal rod in your barrel.  Wood or plastic is OK.

Thanks I am glad we have a master firearms expert. Trip to the hardware store is next.

My father inlaw doesn't like red dots. He had problems with keeping the dot in the circle   He prefers optics with crosshairs. I've never seen through a red dot scope to understand.

I may take it out Sat and fire it even though I don't have sights yet. I'm anxious to fire a few rounds. My father inlaw needs to see how some of his .410 reloads do.

Red dot scopes are mostly about rapid target acquisition more than pin-point accuracy.

Remember that the "dot" in the scope is generally 3 to 5 minutes of angle (it covers 3 to 5 inches at 100 yards).

The cross-hair on a scope is less than 1 minute of angle.

Cause human targets don't need to be hit so precisely as deer or other big game. I still want the Burris red dot but what other specs should I look for in a telescopic scope?

Gads! You kind-of have to write your specs for your own area. The scopes that I found to be great in the fields and light woods of Wisconsin don't do the job in the thick, dark jungles of Mississippi.

Generally a good brand name with a good reputation. I guess that if I had enough money, all of my traditional scopes would be Leupolds. Since I don't have enough money, they are Nikons, Weavers, & Burris.

RRCmdrBennett wrote:Cause human targets don't need to be hit so precisely as deer or other big game.

You know, that's kind-of correct.

In order to drop a deer or bear or wild hog, you need near-perfect shot placement, so that the animal will die within a few feet of being hit. They don't know that they are supposed to lay down and stop..............so they GO!

But a non-critical hit on a human CAN (not always) stop the threat.

However, our Army learned the hard way that it is not a 100% rule. The 2 best examples being the Morrow Warriors of the Philippines and the "Blackhawk Down" incident in Somalia.