Jigging and anodizing raw AR Lowers

I need some advice or tips on how to jig a raw AR lower to become “100%”. I could use help on how to finish the lower whether by anodizing, parkerizing, or cerekote it. I ordered the raw lower by mistake.

Parkerizing is for steel. The chemical reactions do not work for aluminum, so it is out of the picture.

Cerekote is a sprayed & baked finish. Duracote is similar, but it does not involve the same baking process.

Cerekote is harder than Duracote, because it is "ceramic based". But it will eventually chip (as will Duracote), and leave you with big shiny aluminum spots in the receiver.

Also, Cerekote requires that you take their course and get certified, before they sell you supplies. That means that you have to take it to a certified vendor.

Anodizing has been the standard for aluminum since World War 2. It is too involved and putzy to make a setup at home for a single receiver. What I like about Anodizing is that, although it will wear, it does so smoothly and evenly, and so you do not have big chips or bright spots.

So:

Best finishes are #1 Anodizing, #2 Cerekote, #3 Durakote.

In order to have #1 or #2, you will have to take it to a shop. Once you have finished that receiver, it is a firearm, even though it does not have a serial number. If your shop is a FFL, he might refuse to accept a "firearm" without a serial number (because they have to log each firearm "in" and "out", and if they got caught with an unlogged firearm, it would be their tails). I know that your receiver is "legal", but they are called ghosts for a reason, and the Federal Government is looking for cases to make examples of.

You might find someone that you will go past in the course of your job as a truck driver, but remember that going up & down the East Coast with a "firearm" without a serial number may create its own set of adventures, if you get stopped by Highway Patrol.

So, good luck in your adventure.

By the way...


Duracote will sell you the supplies directly, and you can do it in any "clean room".

It is a 2-part epoxy finish. They have come up with a neat spray can that has the hardener in a capsule inside of the can. You break the capsule inside of the can, shake the snot out of it, and spray the finish on your gun, receiver, lawn rake, or whatever you want to look nice.

Also, it comes in about 20 different colors.

I believe that they state that 1 can can do about 2 long guns, but once that hardener is mixed with the epoxy finish, you have a limited time to work with it. So you need to have all of your "projects" cleaned, degreased, and hanging in your paint room.

If you have an air-brush setup, you can mix smaller amounts, put them in your air brush, and not worry about losing a lot of chemicals.

Again, I hope that this helps.

If I wait to jig it out 100% till after its anodized by a shop would that be ok with FFL regulations? It would be still be a hunk of aluminum.

"Legally", that would take care of any problems. In fact, you could actually mail it to a shop.

But check with the vendor first. They have the right to refuse any job that they are uncomfortable with (unless you and the receiver have a gay relationship).

Claymore wrote:"Legally", that would take care of any problems.  In fact, you could actually mail it to a shop.

But check with the vendor first.  They have the right to refuse any job that they are uncomfortable with (unless you and the receiver have a gay relationship).

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I decided to order another lower but anodized. It will cost more to coat the raw lower than buying another.

RRCmdrBennett wrote:I decided to order another lower but anodized. It will cost more to coat the raw lower than buying another.

It looks like, just a can of Duracoat Spray will run you $60.00 to $65.00.

Claymore wrote:

RRCmdrBennett wrote:I decided to order another lower but anodized. It will cost more to coat the raw lower than buying another.

It looks like, just a can of Duracoat Spray will run you $60.00 to $65.00.

Spray paint? A friend suggested that but I laughed it off. I’ll check it out.

It is a 2-part Epoxy Paint.  

They use a new neat technology.  The Hardener is in a vile inside of the Spray Can.  You break the vile of Hardener, shake the snot out of it, and you have about 15 minutes to use it up, before the Epoxy begins to set.  

If done right, it should be about as durable as the paint on your refrigerator or stove. Not bullet-proof, but pretty good.

Obviously, it is a single-use product.